Still Chardonnay Shy? Rick Williams Wants to Change Your Mind
Community Partner Post
Photos courtesy of Bohanan’s Prime Steaks and Seafood
Savoring the Selection:
How to Experience Bohanan’s Elite Wines
With over 550 handpicked bottles and a cellar rich in iconic and hard-to-find wines, it’s not surprising Bohanan’s robust Wine List was recently honored with Wine Spectator’s 2024 Award of Excellence. It signals you’re in the hands of people truly passionate about elevating the entire dining experience. Bohanan’s is also making the world of fine wine accessible to every kind of guest—from the curious novice to the seasoned oenophile—with several thoughtful tasting avenues that allow patrons to explore the depth and artistry behind each bottle.
At the heart of this approach is Bohanan’s Wine By The Glass (BTG) Program, a rotating selection curated in tandem with Chef Mark Bohanan’s menu. Rather than requiring a full bottle commitment, guests can enjoy premium wines—some rare or allocated—by the glass. “It’s a chance to explore something exceptional without taking a risk,” Williams says. Offerings range from benchmark regions like Napa and Burgundy to emerging stars and under-the-radar producers, all selected for their ability to pair beautifully with the cuisine or stand alone as an indulgence.
For those seeking deeper insight, Bohanan’s offers structured tastings. A vertical tasting showcases the evolution of a single wine across multiple vintages—such as Silver Oak Napa Valley Cabernet from 2003 to 2008— highlighting how age and weather shape a wine’s character.
Meanwhile, a horizontal tasting compares different expressions of the same vintage from distinct vineyard sites. One standout: four single-vineyard 2019 Cabernets from Vice Versa’s elite Beckstoffer sites, each revealing the nuance of Napa’s most prized terroirs.
These tasting opportunities are designed not only to educate but to enchant—giving guests rare access to some of the wine world’s most sought-after bottles in a setting that’s both elegant and approachable.
Once the darling of the American wine scene, Chardonnay fell from grace in the early 2000s— its reputation tarnished by over-oaked, overhyped, and overdone manipulation that smothered the grape’s natural elegance. The backlash gave rise to the “Anything But Chardonnay” movement, driving drinkers toward leaner whites such as Pinot Grigio and Sauvignon Blanc. But Rick Williams, Wine Director at Bohanan’s Prime Steaks and Seafood, is leading a quiet revolution to restore Chardonnay’s rightful place at the table.
“It was never Chardonnay’s fault— it was what we did to it.”
Chardonnay is the most shape-shifting varietal in the world—neutral enough to reflect terroir, strong enough to age, and versatile enough to shine whether oaked, unoaked, still, or sparkling. “The Chardonnay grape is a perfect canvas,” says Williams. “What makes it special is how clearly it reflects its environment—and the decisions made by the winemaker. That kind of transparency is what great wine is all about.”
Under Rick’s direction, Bohanan’s offers a deep and deliberate Chardonnay selection that celebrates this versatility—from unoaked, high-acid bottlings to richly textured, lees-aged expressions. He views the grape as a storyteller, capable of whispering coastal winds or echoing limestone hills with each sip.
Tasting Terroir:
Chardonnay Around the World
At Bohanan’s, guests are invited to explore the full arc of Chardonnay’s range. A few highlights include:
Grand Moraine Chardonnay (Willamette Valley, Oregon)
Paired with French-Grilled Oysters
This is a classic, high-end pairing where the wine enhances the oysters' richness, while the oysters accentuate the wine’s nuanced depth. It’s refined, balanced, and unforgettable. The region's marine sedimentary soils, combined with its moderate climate, give the Grand Moraine Chardonnay its characteristic elegance, minerality, and bright acidity. Leesaging builds layers of complexity that elevate the wine beyond fruit alone. “It’s a luxurious but restrained wine,” Rick notes. “Perfect for seafood that has both richness and brine.”
Domaine LaRoche Premier Cru Chablis (Burgundy, France)
Paired with Grilled Jumbo Lump Crab Cake
The lively acidity of the Premier Cru Chablis slices cleanly through the inherent sweet richness of the crab, refreshing the palate and preparing it for the next bite. The wine’s flavors of lemon zest, green apple, and subtle white florals lift the dish, adding brightness and contrast to the savory, slightly caramelized crust of the grilled crab cake. “If you’ve ever doubted Chardonnay, this is the bottle that will change your mind,” Rick says. “It’s elegance and energy in a glass.”
Hartford Court Chardonnay (Russian River Valley, California)
Paired with Macadamia Encrusted Gulf Red Snapper
The malolactic-rich wine brings just the right balance of robust complexity to elevate Bohanan’s beloved menu staple. This pairing offers a harmonious dance of creamy textures, toasted notes, and citrus lift—perfect for lovers of refined coastal cuisine. Rick calls it “a wine that brings old-school Chardonnay lovers back.”
Louis Roederer Blanc de Blancs (Champagne, France)
Paired with Chef Mark’s Crème Brûlée
100% Chardonnay grapes, sourced from Grand Cru vineyards, with zero-dosage—this elegant Champagne is about precision. It’s cleansing, tight, and mineral. Rick elaborates, “The bubbles cut right through the cream and caramel—it’s unexpectedly perfect.”
Pairing Potential and Food Affinity
Rick’ s Tips
Choose the Right Glass
The shape of your glass impacts everything from aroma to taste:
Bordeaux: broad bowl for big reds like Cabernet Sauvignon
Burgundy: wide bowl enhances delicate Pinot Noir aromas
Chardonnay: slightly wider to develop fuller-bodied whites
Flute or Tulip: preserves bubbles and focuses aromas in sparkling wines
Chardonnay’s strength lies in its ability to bridge worlds—matching the delicacy of shellfish, the richness of butter sauces, and even the savory sear of grilled steak. Rick encourages diners to think beyond the stereotype. “ C h a r d o n n a y is a c h a m ele o n. It can be lean or lush, still or sparkling, crisp or creamy. That’s what makes it so fun to pair—it adapts.”
He also believes that the grape’s resurgence is driven by winemakers who are embracing restraint and regional expression. “Cooler-climate sites like Oregon’s Eola-Amity Hills or California’s Santa Maria Valley are turning out wines with precision and vibrancy,” he explains. “And Burgundy remains the gold standard for purity and finesse.”
In the Company of Winemakers
Rick Williams doesn’t just choose wines—he curates moments. Each year, he participates in over 250 tastings and meetings with winemakers and vineyard representatives, carefully selecting bottles that reflect craftsmanship, terroir, and a story worth telling. His work is part sommelier, part storyteller, and fully dedicated to sharing wines that enhance the plate and the soul. Rick’s deep knowledge is grounded in years of formal training and hands-on experience. He graduated from the Culinary Institute of America’s San Antonio campus in 2011, setting the foundation for a career focused on the synergy between food and wine. In 2018, he earned his Level 1 Certification from the Court of Master Sommeliers and is currently preparing to sit for his Certified Sommelier Exam in 2025. He also holds a Level 2 Award in Wines from the Wine & Spirit Education Trust (WSET), which he completed in 2024. This well-rounded education informs his thoughtful selections and sharp palate, and keeps him engaged with the evolving global wine community.
“Winemakers are always striving for tension in the wine.”
Rick’ s Tips
Why Decant and Aerate?
Decanters separate sediment and expose wine to oxygen.
Aerators fast-track this process, ideal for bold young reds. Benefits? Softer tannins, richer aromas, and a smoother finish.
Be careful with deeply aged wines— too much exposure to oxygen may cause their nuanced aromas and flavors to fade quickly.
Rick lights up when talking about the people behind the bottles. “There’s something special about sitting down with the person who made the wine—or whose family has been making it for generations—and hearing the story behind the vintage,” Rick says. “It reminds me of how Chef Bohanan is still on the line checking every plate with pride.” For Rick, the best wines are those that reflect that same integrity— where you can taste the intention. “Winemakers are always striving for tension in the wine,” he explains. “That perfect balance of terroir, weather, fruit, acid, and aging. When it’s done right, it’s a complete experience—and I love to guide our patrons to feel it.”
Build Your Home Wine Collection
Start with what you love—then branch out:
Seek both ready-to-drink and age-worthy wines
Include global regions: the many sub-vinicultures of France with Cabernet Sauvignon, Champagne, Chablis, and Viognier; Oregon Pinot Noir, Napa Cab, Argentine Malbec, New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, Italy’s Piedmont Nebbiolo, Spanish Tempranillo—all unique.
Keep notes and experiment with food pairings
Visit local tastings—or better yet, try Bohanan’s BTG program
Most importantly, enjoy your wines. “The best bottle,” Rick says with a smile, “is the one that brings people together.”
Bohanan’s Prime Steaks and Seafood is located at 219 East Houston Street, San Antonio, Texas. Valet parking is available for patrons. Reservations are recommended and can be made via telephone at 210-472-2600 or OpenTable.
Bohanan’s 2nd Floor Fine Dining is open Sunday-Thursday, 5:00-9:00 p.m.; Friday-Saturday, 5:00-10:00 p.m.
Bohanan’s 1st Floor Bar and Courtyard is open Sunday-Thursday, 5:00-10:00 p.m.; Friday-Saturday, 5:00-11:00 p.m. with live music.
For More Information:
Rick Williams, Wine Director, rick@bohanans.com
Scott Becker, General Manager of Bohanan’s, scott@bohanans.com
Lainey Berkus, Media Liaison lmberkus@me.com
Photos available upon request.
